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Can this really be CHANEL?
It is an understandable first reaction.
The immaculate tweed jacket and little black dress have not disappeared, but in CHANEL 26PF their outlines are loosened. The clothes arrive creased, layered and absorbed into the pace of an ordinary commute.
For the 2026 Métiers d’Art collection, familiarity is not erased so much as cleverly unsettled—and the result will not please everyone in quite the same way.
A disused New York subway station became the set. When the train arrived, its passengers stepped out in leopard, suiting, pearls and denim. Rather than presenting one immaculate archetype, the show allowed every character to carry CHANEL differently.
The opening look was particularly disarming: a white top, a zip-up layer and faded denim, worn with the ease of a student. The model was Hyderabad-born Bhavitha Mandava, the first Indian model to open a CHANEL show.
Months later, Mandava made her Met Gala debut in an haute couture version of that same seemingly casual idea. The white tank, half-zip and faded-jeans effect took around 250 hours to complete.
The trousers were silk mousseline masquerading as denim. Trompe-l’œil printing supplied the wear and fading; painstaking handwork made the deception convincing. The finest workmanship is present, but deliberately refuses to look grand.
For another view of the house through its models, our Loli Bahia article traces the confidence she brings to CHANEL runways and campaigns.
The tweed jackets are not arranged as untouchable classics. They are worn with denim, pushed beneath coats and allowed to soften around the body. Their refinement is sensed before it is declared.
Embroidery creates denim-like depth; bouclé is worked to resemble flannel. Lesage, Goossens, Lemarié, Atelier Montex and Maison Michel provide the exacting craft that gives Métiers d’Art its meaning.
What feels new is the refusal to frame that labour as occasionwear. Matthieu Blazy lets couture-level skill recede into clothes that look ready for a real working day.
Super Dacob’s singular delivery is matched by an unusually perceptive eye for fashion. We are keen followers of his work, and this frank CHANEL review is especially worth watching for the details and contradictions he notices.
Across the complete film, the collection reads as an ensemble of New York characters rather than one prescribed ideal. Tailored jackets, coats and dresses alter in mood with every wearer.
The first impression may be of a house casting off its familiar polish. Yet every closer view reveals exceptional cloth, precise construction and the quiet insistence of handwork.
Did it feel too far from CHANEL, or did that freedom make the collection convincing? We would love to know how this new CHANEL struck you. Please send us an email whenever you like—your view is always welcome.
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