CHANEL 16PF “Paris in Rome” | Karl Lagerfeld-era Tweed, Lace and Film【2016 Métiers d’Art】 | UK

During Karl Lagerfeld’s era, CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2016 (16PF) “Paris in Rome” rebuilt Paris inside Rome. At Cinecittà, memory of cinema rather than a real street became the runway. The meeting of weighty tweed, scarfed tailoring and transparent lace gives the collection its film-like depth.

A black-and-white Paris fills Cinecittà’s Teatro No. 5

On 1 December 2015, a monochrome street with a Métro entrance, café and street lamps appeared inside Teatro No. 5 at Cinecittà. Images of French actresses met an Italian cinematic gaze, making the film set itself the background for the clothes.

The show film reveals how the black-and-white streetscape, tweed, lace and embroidery share the same range of shadow.

Film shadow moves into CHANEL tweed and lace

Metallic light and fine embroidery break through black-and-white outlines, while jackets are tied or dropped from the shoulders. Scarves, lace and heavy coats sit side by side to create the lights and darks of an older film.

The backstage film brings the scale of the set and the finishing of hair, eyes and clothing into close view.

High hair and dark eyes recall Brigitte Bardot

High hair and dense black eye makeup recall actresses of 1960s cinema. Hair and makeup, as well as the clothes, move between memories of Paris and Rome and complete the 16PF story.

Karl Lagerfeld’s own film traces the idea of filming Paris in Rome through his words and the production images.

Reading CHANEL 16PF through outline and transparency

The 16PF coats and jackets gain depth when weighty tweed is placed beside lace, narrow edges and scarves at the neck. Even an all-black look can carry cinematic shadow when the surface textures remain distinct.