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For CHANEL Cruise 2024/25, known as 25C, Marseille became a study in how architecture can alter the mood of clothing. The show took place on 2 May 2024 at MAMO, on the roof of Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse.
Virginie Viard placed precise tweed tailoring beside hooded layers, flat footwear, openwork knitwear and lace. The result was not simply casual; it was a careful change of pace.
・Cité Radieuse and the Marseille setting
・How architecture shaped the tweed
Designed by Le Corbusier between 1945 and 1952, the Unité d’Habitation combined housing with communal spaces. Its roof was conceived with a running track, gymnasium and open-air theatre; MAMO now continues its connection with art and public life.
The building’s coloured panels and repeated windows find an echo in pale tones, grey and checks. A bright green tweed jacket worn over a grey hoodie makes the method easy to see: the jacket stays disciplined, but its styling becomes deliberately less formal.
EDITOR’S VIEW
Rather than changing the identity of the jacket, 25C changes what sits beside it. Flat shoes and a hood bring the same tailoring closer to everyday movement.
Seen against the exposed roof, the light fabrics and flat footwear make particular sense.
A white hooded scuba suit was finished with a black bow. Openwork knitwear, diagonal waves, net-like gold necklaces and sea-creature ruffles translated the coast into materials rather than relying on obvious nautical uniform.
Patchwork lace dresses, ballet flats and dark diving-inspired shoes brought evening delicacy and practical design into the same collection.
CHANEL 25C is most persuasive when these opposites remain visible: concrete and lace, sport and tailoring, the city and the sea.
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