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The detail is lavish; the outline stays easy.
For the US edit, CHANEL 2007 07PF is most useful as a study in balance: intricate tweed, tulle and jewellery set against a clear jacket line. Its source was Le Train Bleu, the sporty 1924 ballet dressed by Gabrielle Chanel.
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Metallic tweed and embellished buttons already create depth. A white tee, fine knit, denim or straight black trousers gives the jacket a calm frame and lets the workmanship stay visible.
Satin at the neckline or one piece of jewellery can pick up the runway’s light without turning the outfit into costume.
CHANEL showed Paris–Monte-Carlo at the restored 1878 theatre inside the Monte Carlo casino. Princess Caroline and Charlotte Casiraghi were among the audience.
The fourth Nijinsky Awards followed in the same theatre that evening. Named for dancer and choreographer Vaslav Nijinsky, the ceremony celebrated dance artists; Lagerfeld devised the backdrop and designed corsets and jeans for performers. Fashion inspired by ballet moved directly from runway to stage.
The collection advanced in three acts, moving from city-ready daywear to cocktail and evening. Ballet softness and Russian military notes appeared in jackets, suits and dresses rather than as literal stage costumes.
Desrues jewellery, stone-set enamel bags, satin, tulle and bow-trimmed shoes added handworked detail, while the silhouette remained controlled.
Transparency, reflected light and soft movement separate the layers visually. The eye sees space between textures instead of one dense block.
The full CHANEL Paris–Monte-Carlo runway shows how the collection moves from day to evening while keeping its layered silhouettes light.
Le Train Bleu was created for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes with a scenario by Jean Cocteau, choreography by Bronislava Nijinska, music by Darius Milhaud and costumes by Gabrielle Chanel. Picasso’s beach runners became the image on the front cloth.
The ballet pictured fashionable people sunbathing and playing sport on the Côte d’Azur. Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza also documents Picasso and Chanel working together through Cocteau on Antigone in 1922 and Le Train Bleu in 1924.
A short film about Picasso and Chanel in Antigone and Le Train Bleu. The historical facts in this article are based on the official Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza account.
A stage excerpt from Le Train Bleu. The upload does not identify the company, performers or recording year, so it is included only as a visual reference for the ballet’s sporting movement and atmosphere.
LILY’S EVERYDAY CHANEL
Lily on our staff wears this piece throughout the year. Black-to-deep-navy metallic tweed has plenty of character, yet the clean line works easily with denim, a white top or simple trousers.
See the same CHANEL 07PF jacketShop CHANEL 2007 07PF jackets, suits and dresses in our Paris–Monte-Carlo collection for the US.
Shop the CHANEL 07PF collectionSources: CHANEL’s official Maisons d’art information, British Vogue’s December 2006 report, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, the Paris Opera and the Los Angeles Times account of the Nijinsky Awards.
CHANEL / British Vogue / Museo Thyssen / Paris Opera / Los Angeles Times
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