Stella Tennant in CHANEL 96A: Karl Lagerfeld’s Jewel Buttons【1996 FW】 | HK

CHANEL 1996 Fall/Winter (96A) sets military precision against the radiance of jewel-like buttons and jewellery. Karl Lagerfeld’s slim jackets and long coats use black, brown, olive and beige, while gold and coloured glass bring light to the disciplined palette.

Stella Tennant appears in the campaign, photographed by Karl at Tadao Ando’s Meditation Space inside UNESCO Headquarters in Paris. The concrete setting makes the tailoring and reflective details feel especially clear.

96A以軍裝式俐落線條結合金色與彩色玻璃細節，Stella Tennant與安藤忠雄的建築共同構成寧靜而有張力的畫面。

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CHANEL 96A Military Jackets: Precision and Light

High collars, double-breasted fronts, regular rows of buttons and elongated coats define the collection’s military influence. Yet Karl never treats the clothes as literal uniforms.

A fitted black waist, brown and olive tweed, and long houndstooth lines give the jackets authority. Curves close to the body and the movement of skirts soften the structure, translating military discipline into CHANEL femininity.

Military structure meets the gleam of jewels.
軍裝線條與珠寶光芒之間，正是96A的魅力。

The runway shows the full length and movement of the jackets and coats, together with the rhythm of buttons placed along each silhouette.

Gripoix Coloured Glass and CHANEL Tweed｜彩色玻璃與粗花呢

Colour at buttons, belts and jewellery softens the hard lines. Details in 96A recall molten coloured glass poured into moulds, creating depth, rounded contours and subtle variation unlike a cut transparent stone.

Founded in Paris in 1869, Gripoix is known for this technique. The Metropolitan Museum of Art describes it as one of the houses that collaborated early and frequently with CHANEL; freedom of colour and form made poured glass ideal for Gabrielle Chanel’s costume jewellery.

Buttons extend the vertical line, buckles define the waist, and necklaces or earrings glow against black fabric. 軍裝秩序與珠寶裝飾在同一設計中彼此呼應。

Gripoix
Jeweled Buttons・寶石鈕扣

Stella Tennant in CHANEL 96A｜首個品牌廣告

Karl Lagerfeld photographed Stella Tennant for the 1996 Fall/Winter campaign. Women’s Wear Daily reported in May 1996 that Karl selected her for around 30 black-and-white images at UNESCO Headquarters. Her cropped hair and androgynous bearing aligned naturally with 96A’s military mood.

CHANEL ARCHIVES identifies 96A as Stella’s first campaign for the house. She returned intermittently from Spring/Summer 1997 through Cruise 2017, appearing in nine campaigns altogether. 這也是Stella與CHANEL長期合作的起點。

Stella Tennant in a beige CHANEL look for the 1996 Fall Winter 96A campaign

Stella Tennant in a yellow CHANEL jacket for the 1996 Fall Winter 96A campaign

Stella Tennant in a neutral CHANEL look for the 1996 Fall Winter 96A campaign

Stella Tennant in a light CHANEL jacket for the 1996 Fall Winter 96A campaign

CHANEL 96A at Tadao Ando’s Meditation Space｜安藤忠雄「冥想空間」

The Meditation Space at UNESCO Headquarters was completed in 1995 for UNESCO’s 50th anniversary. Tadao Ando’s exposed-concrete cylinder and carefully controlled light create a quiet interior removed from the activity outside.

The floor incorporates granite exposed to the Hiroshima atomic bombing and later decontaminated. The room was conceived for reflection on peace beyond race or religion.

No official CHANEL source found for this article confirms that the contrast was intentional—military dress in a space dedicated to peace. Still, the abstract concrete clearly sharpens the linear tailoring, the light on metal and glass, and Stella’s silhouette.

UNESCO states that its Paris Headquarters, including the Meditation Space, may be visited on guided tours booked in advance. 官方資料指出，可預約導賞團參觀。

How to Wear CHANEL 96A Tweed Today｜當代穿搭

The jackets are ornate but precisely cut. Let the buttons take focus: black works with slim trousers or a straight skirt, while brown or olive tweed is strongest over a plain layer. This preserves the 1990s attitude without overwhelming a modern outfit.

Coloured glass and large gold buttons can replace extra jewellery. Fastened, the jacket feels uniform-like and exact; open, it becomes lighter. 清晰修長的剪裁，令96A在近三十年後仍具鮮明輪廓。