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Recently, the number of fake pieces has truly increased.
And in China these days, it is no longer just fake bags. Fake clothing is being made as well, and some pieces are now so convincing that you simply cannot tell at a glance. It has honestly reached the point where we seriously wonder, “Would someone without experience even be able to recognize this as fake?”
The quality of counterfeit pieces keeps improving, and they are now made so precisely that even our repeat customers, who usually shop at Chanel boutiques, can miss them.
In fact, an even more unsettling situation has begun to emerge.
In recent years, fake Chanel pieces have become far more sophisticated than most people imagine, and there are now cases where even an item accepted for alteration at a boutique cannot automatically be considered authentic.
In fact, we have previously received items for authentication that had been accepted for alteration at a boutique, yet after our own inspection, we concluded that they were not genuine.
Blog: They accepted it for alteration at the boutique… and yet it was fake?
The other day, one customer asked us:
“I bought a Chanel jacket from a major luxury resale shop, and it turned out to be fake. I really do not want to make the same mistake again. Are there certain years that tend to have more fakes?”
The answer is yes.
As specialists who handle Chanel clothing every day, the collection that makes us think, “There are simply too many fakes of this,” is the 2013 Cruise collection. From what we hear from our repeat customers as well, we strongly feel that a large number of fake 2013 Cruise pieces are circulating.
The reason may be that this collection still has lasting popularity, and that compared with other years, the materials are relatively light and thin. It may simply be easier for counterfeiters to source similar materials.
The other day as well, one of our repeat customers asked us to purchase a 2013 Cruise dress, and sent the item to us by mail.
She usually buys from Chanel boutiques and has a very trained eye, so under normal circumstances we are able to purchase from her with confidence.
But this time, something felt different.
“Hmm… is something just slightly off?”
It was only the faintest sense of discomfort. So we checked the piece very carefully, from top to bottom. At first glance, the difference was so subtle that it was barely noticeable.
At our store, we have a vast digital archive built over many years, including Chanel boutique-issued product numbers, color codes, and related data.
We have also received authentication requests in the past, and when we compared this piece carefully against our internal data, we found something unusual. The label showed a color code for a version that was never actually produced in that design.
“This model was never made in apricot. It was only released in pink. So why is this label showing the apricot color code?”
It is an extremely slight discrepancy, one that would never be visible just from looking at the item. Without years of accumulated label and color-code records, it would be almost impossible to catch this kind of inconsistency.
It is exactly the kind of detail that can only be spotted through daily hands-on experience and a long history of data accumulation.
On another occasion, we encountered something similar.
At our store, if a design is especially popular, we sometimes keep multiple sizes in stock. When a requested size 38 arrived, we were pleased. But when we compared it with the size 36 we already had, something felt off.
After checking it carefully, we discovered a subtle difference in the lining.
In the authentic version of that design, the lining should have had just a slight amount of stretch. But the fake used a completely non-stretch silk fabric. And to make matters worse, the lining even had a sheer camellia motif that was not supposed to be there at all.
That surprised us.
In this case, the authentic piece had no camellia pattern in the lining, while the fake did. Cases like this show why having multiple authentic examples of the same design can also help when identifying fakes. We also keep detailed records on things like whether the lining has stretch and whether there is a camellia motif.
There were also subtle differences in the spacing of the stitches on the label and in the typeface used for the tag printing. Even for a repeat customer who regularly shops at Chanel boutiques, the differences were simply too slight to notice.
In this respect, until a few years ago, 1990s Chanel pieces had very few fakes.
The construction and materials are on a completely different level from more recent pieces, with a richness and substance that are immediately apparent. The fabrics and chains used are far more substantial, and the overall level of luxury is extraordinary.
The sewing is also extremely elaborate, and reproducing it convincingly would cost too much, which is why 1990s pieces were once considered difficult to counterfeit.
However, the situation has changed in recent years.
Especially in the case of styles that regained popularity after being worn by celebrities, or models that now command high resale prices, fakes of 1990s pieces have started to appear as well.
That said, the way these fakes differ, and the kind of subtle discomfort they create, is somewhat different from fakes of more recent collections, and they can still be difficult to spot unless you regularly handle authentic pieces.
In this case, the customer had not bought the piece from a Chanel boutique, nor from an individual seller on Yahoo! Auctions.
Surprisingly, it had been purchased from the auction site of a famous major luxury resale shop that everyone would recognize.
What is truly frightening is that the price was close to 300,000 yen.
In other words, the seller likely had no malicious intent at all and simply did not realize it was fake.
And that is exactly where the real problem lies. What makes these cases so difficult is when the seller has no awareness that the item is counterfeit.
So from the buyer’s side, what can actually be done?
Even major luxury resale shops can miss the subtle details that reveal a fake.
So if even a major store can carry counterfeits, does that mean there is no way to protect yourself?
Not necessarily.
If you buy from that kind of shop, it is important for the customer to have a critical eye as well, because the store may not be acting intentionally.
What does that mean?
A store that handles a large volume of bags will naturally be stronger at authenticating bags, and in the case of our repeat customer, if the item had been a bag, the shop probably would have noticed the issue before offering it for sale.
And the reverse is also true. If it had been a bag, there is a good chance that our own store might not have noticed the fake either.
That is why it is so important to look at what a seller actually specializes in.
It is the same as choosing a lawyer or a tax accountant. Do they specialize in divorce cases? In inheritance tax?
In the same way, when deciding whom to trust, one useful precaution is to consider what field that seller is truly strongest in.
Whether the seller offers good service, whether the price seems fair, or whether the customer support is reliable may not be the key issue here. Because the real problem is that the seller may not knowingly be selling a fake.
If even major resale shops require caution, then buyers using auctions or flea market platforms need to be even more careful.
At our store, our staff, who are also Chanel fans themselves, carefully inspect clothing ranging from 1990s pieces to recent collections. It is only by handling large numbers of genuine Chanel clothing pieces every day that you develop the instinctive sense to feel, “Something is not right.”
Naturally, when it comes to Chanel boutique maintenance or alterations, we have never had any item gently refused.
So please shop with confidence and enjoy your purchase
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