
CHANEL 09A Black-Green
Wool-Silk Long Coat Jacket
CHANEL 09A proves that black can be the main event and still feel light.
Fall–Winter 2009/10 transformed Beau Brummell’s precise dark menswear into ‘Belle Brummell’: womenswear defined by detachable white collars and cuffs, pale pink, jade and three jacket lengths.
Beau Brummell was the English dandy associated with disciplined dark dress and close attention to ties, scarves, collars and cuffs. Lagerfeld changed the masculine ‘Beau’ to the feminine ‘Belle’, translating that vocabulary into black CHANEL dresses and suits.
At the Grand Palais in March 2009, the clothes moved over an onyx-like floor through eight plain white rooms. White tulle, muslin and taffeta ruffles lightened the formal black line.
The complete show reveals the black-and-white rhythm across the collection.
Matte wool, satin sheen, transparency and beadwork respond to light differently. Jackets appeared in three lengths, finished with ottoman braid, cut from paper-like tweed or balanced by streamlined men’s trousers.
Under hats by Maison Michel, the CHANEL hatmaking atelier, coat dresses, suits and evening gowns used embossed stretch fabric, guipure, jet-black bead embroidery, cabochon-like wool, satin leather, silk jersey and crêpe.
Pale pink and jade are deliberately brief.
Jade reappears in Art Deco pendants and rings set into heels. Each small accent clarifies the surrounding black.
The close detail film makes the shifts in cloth, trim and accessories easier to read.
Pleated ruffs, chiffon camellias and fine cuffs in white tulle, muslin and taffeta redrew the face and wrists of the black clothes.
Many could be removed, allowing one garment to move between strict and decorative expressions.




Lagerfeld’s interview places that transformative idea at the centre of the collection.
Discover the jackets, coats, suits, dresses, sweaters and tops from the collection.
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